Right click and "COPY" 4. Use the search function as you normally would. Try to stick to only one word, since authors will sometimes use their middle initial, then not, change names, etc. Trash the blank page when you're done. This will bring up a second window that will give you a behind-the-stage look at my coding along with the entries. There is a search function on source pages. Close the Source page when you're done.
This is their 10th Anniversary issue, and Alice Korach talks about having sold about 20, of their first issue, and , of this one She also talks about testing all patterns before publishing, with the exception of Rebecca Brown Thompson's "Leaf Lei" - they way things are worded, I'm uncertain whether people had problems with the instructions She turned the reins over to Mindy Brooks Round files look a bit like incense sticks; you poke them into your bead, twist it back and forth a few times, and withdraw it, the result being smoother innards for your bead.
Bead reamers look a bit like picks for very very small ice cubes; you poke the sharp end of the reamer into your bead and work it around a few times to enlarge the hole. Of course, you're a bit limited in how much you can enlarge a bead's hole without destroying the bead altogether. If you're dealing with particularly delicate beads, you might just be S. If so, just suck it up and use a different type of thread. First, take a hard look at your beads. Do they have smooth drill holes? If your beads are a bit rough around the edges, or are particularly heavy, then you might want to limit yourself to beading wire, braided thread, fiber cord, leather cord, satin cord, or suede cord.
Needles to Say Like hard drugs, not all beading projects require the use of a needle. Although run-of-the-mill sewing needles will suffice lor some pieces, others require actual beading needles. Bead suppliers sell these needles in a range of lengths and sizes — 10, 12, 13, 15, and 16 the smallest. The distinguishing characteristic ol a beading needle is that its eye is the same width as the rest ol the needle, which is itself very fine.
This feature is particularly handy if your project involves beads with minuscule holes.
Sharps are beading needles that are noted for their, er, sharpness. Big eye needles. These wire needles are 90 percent eye, 10 percent point, making them by far the easiest to thread. Just separate the center wires and poke the tip of the The Good Buy Girl S3 Take the Thread Eije Of course, because the eye of a beading needle is smaller than normal, threading a beading needle can prove an exer- cise in frustration-especially if you opted for shop class over home-ec in middle school like I did.
Here's the deal: Rather than trying to poke the thread through the eye of the needle, try moving the needle over the thread. That is, hold the thread between your thumb and forefinger such that a stub of thread sticks up, brush the eye of the needle over the stub, and then pray to the deity of your choosing for the stub to penetrate the eye. If the stub is frayed, try waxing the thread, or use way sharp scissors to snip the end of the thread at an angle in order to create a little point. Better yet, do us all a favor and buy a needle threader, which resembles a game token with a wire loop off one end.
Simply pass the wire loop through the eye of your needle, feed the thread through the loop, work the needle free of the loop, and you're good to go. If your project simply involves stringing rather than stitching or weaving, a big eye needle can easily do the job. Twisted wire needles. Repeat until no more beads will fit on the shaft, and then slide all the beads down the shaft onto your thread. A sure-fire way to cheapen your pieces is to use sub-par findings.
Use the best findings you can afford — especially if you plan to sell your jewelry or give it to people who you want to like you. These findings include but are not limited to the following: Rings. In this context, ring refers to a small circle of wire used to connect bits of bead- work.
Beading involves two main types of rings: jump rings and split rings. A jump ring is simply a single ring of wire that fea- tures a small opening, which you open and close by bending the wire side- ways rather than apart and together. Split rings, in contrast, are like Lilliputian key rings.
In general, split rings are more secure than jump rings because they are more difficult to pry ] ump rings and sp jt rjngs apart. If split rings become your ring of choice, invest in a pair of split ring pliers. I talk more about split ring pliers a little later on. Keeping an array of pins handy is a smart move. Eye pins and head pins, which have blunt rather than the pointy tips of their sewing pin counterparts, are often used to create dangly earrings.
Head pins typically resemble anorexic nails — that is, they are composed of a skinny strand ol wire with a flat stopper on one end. Eye pins resemble head pins except they use a loop as the stopper. Pins also come in more embellished forms, with pretty designs acting as stoppers.
As an aside, straight pins, corsage pins sorry, minus the corsage , and their ilk can come in handy when you begin stringing jewelry. Ear wires. French ear wires — excuse me, make that freedom ear wires — look like upside-down Js with a loop on one end, which you open as you would a jump ring to hang your dangly bits. Kidney wires, on the other hand, resemble, er, kidneys. In addition to French and The Good Buy Girl 25 Protecting yowr Assets Dangly earrings that use French ear wires can slip out of your earlobe, which is a huge bummer if the earring featured super special read: expensive beads.
To prevent such catastrophes, invest in some plastic stoppers, like the ones fre- quently found on store-bought earrings. They're typically sold separately from the ear wires themselves, but can generally be found on the cheap at any bead store and at most craft stores. These look like kidney wires but are closed with a lever, making them more secure. Of course, in addi- tion to using ear wires to create ear- rings, you can also employ hoops, clip- ons, and posts. Bead caps. Bead tips perform a similar function. Crimp beads.
Tube-shaped, metal, and teeny, crimp beads can be used to attach a clasp to your strung piece. Simply string the crimp bead onto your thread, poke the thread through your clasp, and then pull the thread in the opposite direction back through the crimp bead. Then — this is the fun part, where you can work out Bead caps 26 Not Your Mama's Beading Clamshells and bead tips Cones Crimp beads some aggression —squish the bead flat using crimping pliers.
You squish these bands with chain nose pliers rather than crimping pliers. Connectors, separator bars, and end bars. Connectors are helpful if you want your piece to start with a single strand and then switch to multiple stands partway through. Separator bars, also called spacer bars, tidy up multiple-strand pieces by separating and spacing the strands. End bars enable you to join multiple strands to a single-strand clasp.
Clasps, also called fasteners, open and close, enabling you to, say, fasten a necklace around your neck. Clasps are sold in many flavors; my faves are lobster-claw, toggle, and S-hook. In addition to serving a functional purpose, clasps can also beautify your piece — especially clasps with decorative embellishments or gemstones. Interviewed by Nora Dunn and Jan Hooks, who were themselves mocking a Lifetime-network chat show called Attitudes which was hilarious in its own right, though not on purpose , Malkovich, who sported a long, blond wig and perched lotus-style on the cushy set chair, used a pitch-perfect slacker cadence to describe his craft.
After finding a piece of driftwood, Tukwilla explained, he prepped it by sanding and oiling it. I have a special affinity for E adhesive, and not just because breathing it in makes me just a teeny bit woozy. Note: I am in no way advocating sniffing glue here. Survival Tools The Department of Homeland Security has suggested that Americans arm themselves with a variety of survival tools — flashlight, wind-up radio, and, of course, duct tape. By the way, make it a point to buy the best beading tools you can afford.
Instead, spring lor special, sturdy, stainless-steel "memory wire cutters. These cutters, which are precision- manufactured using high-quality steel, feature cushion-gripped handles and a built-in spring for comfort and ease of use, and result in a smooth cut. The main difference between the two types is the inside of the schnozz on chain nose pliers is smooth, whereas needle nose pliers are roughed up a bit on the inside for better grip. Because that roughness on the needle nose pliers can scratch, I typically opt for chain nose pliers when I need to bend wire at right angles or open or close a jump ring.
Wire jigs look a bit like cribbage boards-they have a ton of little holes in them, which you plug with bitty pegs. Once the pegs are in place, you then wrap your wire around them to form loops, curves, and other bendy shapes. Crimping pliers are used to flatten — can you guess? Plus, using crimping pliers yields a more professional-looking crimp than needle nose or chain nose pliers do. Split ring pliers. You know how freaking hard it is to put a key onto a key ring?
Actually separating the ends of the ring enough to slide the key on involves the dexterity of an Indian rug weaver, and if you recently had a manicure — well, forget it. Now imagine how much it would suck if that key ring was the size of a ladybug. Hello, exercise in frustra- tion! The next chapter covers techniques that should be mastered by every header with a modicum of self respect. Mandrel in the Wind One great tool for wirework is a ring mandrel, which enables you to size and form wire into ring shanks.
If you intend to make wire-based rings part of your beading repertoire, invest in a ring man- drel; they can be cheaply acquired at most bead stores. The JTml- Retentive deader-. He spent the whole sketch preparing to cook — cleaning the cook surface, tidying the countertop, ensuring that his peppers were chopped just so — but never actually managed to place a single pot in the oven. Although Gene might have taken things a little far, he may have had a point. At the risk of sounding like an anal-retentive header, I do suggest you take some time to prepare your work environment lor best results.
This means I understand why our civilization has yielded the sale of specialized bead containers. Tackle boxes are especially handy for organizing your materials. Regardless of where you buy, look for containers with the following specs: Ideally, if you buy multiple containers or plan to add to your single container in the future , look for stackable caddies. Make it a point to buy clear containers.
Granted, some people like them because they enable you to shrink or enlarge the various compartments, but those people are just wrong. Never throw away a used Altoid tin, Tic-Tac box, film canister, or prescription bottle. These make great containers for needles and various other beading-related doo-dads. Those bags are great for housing your beading tools — wire cutters, pliers, and what have you. Put another way, a tidy workstation is a happy workstation. To that end, consider the following: Pay attention! This is essential! Invest in a bead mat — a small piece of sponge-y fabric — for your work surface.
When beginning a project, avoid the temptation to dump your entire bead collection onto your work surface. Instead, consider which specific beads you want to use and dump only tboje beads. Likewise, limit the tools, thread, and findings on your workspace to the ones you actually plan to use. Ditto those thick paper plates that segregate your Do not — I repeat, do not — let your cat on your work surface.
Just kidding about the whole stun gun thing. Likewise, you should take steps to ensure your physical comfort when beading. Also, ensure that your seat your chair, not your derriere has adequate cushion for your seat your derriere, not your chair. Finally, good posture is key. Your back — and your cotillion instructor — will thank you.
Using scissors, cut thread. Using fingers, pick up bead.
Love your stash
Feed thread through the hole in the bead. That said, stringing actual necklaces or bracelets, as opposed to just disembodied ropes of beads, does require a bit more know-how. Designing Women For one, the adult in you is probably a bit more concerned with design than the toddler in you was. That means considering these points before you put bead to string: Do you want your piece to include beads that appear in a pattern, or beads that are interspersed randomly throughout?
Do you want your piece to involve a focus bead — that is, a single bead that draws attention, which may or may not be complemented by additional beads? Bead It 33 Do you want your piece to be textured or smooth? This may dictate the types of beads you select. How many and what colors do you want to use? One way to explore color theory without forking over art-school tuition is to park yourself in front of a display of paint chips at your local hardware store — especially the ones created by interior designers to demonstrate which diverse colors work well together.
Next time you hit your local bead shop, go armed with the paint chips that really caught your eye in the hopes of finding beads that match. Beyond that, look to fashion, food, and home magazines lor color- combination ideas. A color wheel can also be a good tool for choosing colors. These nifty plastic trays are texturized to pre- vent your beads from escaping, and feature channels to house your beads as you plot your piece.
Each channel is ticked with measurement markers to help you make sure the bracelet Using a bead board, also called a "design board," makes laying out your design a breeze. You can stash the beads, find- ings, and other necessities for your project in the storage compartments carved out of the middle and sides of the board. Then attach one end of your clasp to the end of your thread. Draw the thread through the loop on your clasp and then back through the crimp bead. The short end of the wire should be an inch or so long, and aligned as closely as possible with the long end of the wire.
Then, using either chain nose pliers or crimping pliers, squish the bead flat. Attaching the clasp to thread is a bit different. Then add a second overhand knot, right on top of the first one. Using your scissors, trim off the excess thread so that your knots are at the very end of your strand.
Carefully drop a speck of glue on the knots inside the bead tip. Using your chain nose pliers, close the bead tip around your knots. Attach one end of your clasp before stringing the beads. Add the clasp.
It's a two-step process. First, place the crimp bead in the crimping pliers' inner jaw-where its molars are, if you'll excuse the anthropomorphism-and squeeze the handles to fold the crimp bead in half. If your wire is too thick to pass both ends through your beads, consider using larger beads on the ends of your pieces. Once all the excess wire is concealed by the beads, carry on stringing as normal.
If thread is your vehicle, do yourself a favor and use a needle, beading or otherwise, to string your piece. First, unfasten the clasp so that you have a bit more freedom of movement. Prod the thread through the last three or four beads on your piece to help anchor it, and then tug the excess with your chain nose pliers to tighten the loop attaching the clasp to your piece. The goal here is to have as little space as possible between the last bead of your piece and the crimp bead, but to leave enough room between the crimp bead and the clasp so that the clasp has room to breathe a bit.
Use your wire cutters to trim the excess thread from your piece. Bead It 37 Cnttiruj It Close When cutting excess wire from your pieces, you can get the closest cut possible by positioning the cutters with the flat part of the cutter toward the work. It works even better when your free hand can pinch the wire and slightly lift the piece up from your work surface, and then cut.
If you used thread rather than beading wire, follow these steps instead: After you finish adding your beads, string the second bead tip onto your piece. Grasp the end of the thread with one hand and the corsage pin with the other, and use the corsage pin to prod the knot toward the bead tip. Once the knot is nestled in the tip, pull the thread to tighten it, and then remove the pin. Repeat steps 2 and 3 to add a second knot right on top of the first one, with both knots inside the bead tip.
Using your sharp scissors, trim the excess thread from your piece. Squeeze a dot ol glue on the new knots. There it is, your first strung piece! If you love it, keep it for yourself. Plus, it requires only a minimal attention span. That way, the next time your paramour rips your necklace from your neck in a fit of pas- sion, your beads won't scatter all over the back seat of your car. Here's how it's done: After you start your strung piece as outlined above-knotting the end, adding a bead tip, and prodding your first bead along to abut it-tie a loose overhand knot.
Poke the corsage pin through the loop of the knot. Holding the long end of the thread with one hand, use your other hand to draw the pin and knot flush with the bead. With the knot against the bead, extract the corsage pin. Then use your fingers to push the knot against the bead as you pull on the thread to tighten the knot. Repeat for each bead in your piece. Stitching, or weaving, beads involves some degree of skill — not to mention patience — but the results can be stunning.
Among the most basic bead stitches are the peyote stitch, the brick stitch, the square stitch, the daisy chain, the ladder stitch, and the right-angle weave, each of which yields a different texture and effect. Not to be all Ms. On occasion, you might instead use bugle beads teeny tiny cylinders , Swarovski crystals, or some other type of uniformly sized bead, depending on the effect you want to achieve. Bead It 39 Thread. As with beads, the width you need will depend on what type of piece you are planning to stitch up.
Popular types of thread for stitching beads include nylon thread, such as Nymo, C-Lon, and Silamide, or beading wire — specifi- cally FireLine, which acts just like nylon thread but is way stronger. Beeswax or similar conditioner. To prevent nylon thread from breaking, fraying, or knotting, keep a bar of beeswax or other thread conditioner handy. Beading needles. As noted in chapter 2, beading needles differ from plain-old sewing needles in that their eye is the same width as the rest of the needle.
This is a particu- larly helpful feature when working with super-wee seed beads. Beading needles can be pretty sharp. Trust me. Rather than using smaller sizes of seed beads when practicing these stitches, start with larger seed beads— that is, sizes A, 5, or 6 seed beads, sometimes referred to as "pony beads. There are scores more types of stitches, not to mention variations on variations.
Plus, you can really go crazy and learn how to increase and decrease the stitches, much like knitters do, to affect the width of your piece. Tension Beadache Many stitches require the use of a tension bead, a. To make your own tension bead, simply string a bead — any bead — that is larger than the ones in your piece on a length of thread. Then, loop the thread around and pass it through the bead, in the same direction as before, a few more times. Leave yourself a bit of a tail on the short end — 6 inches should do the trick. Admit it — you strapped a sim- ilar fashion gem around your 5-year-old tummy.
I always wondered how those beads were strung together; turns out, the flat peyote otitcb was used. If you like, you can just use one color or even various colors in a random pattern. Note, too, that the flat peyote stitch comes in two flavors, even count and odd count, with even count being the easier of the two. After adding a tension bead, string an even number of beads on the thread.
Add a seventh bead, and then pull your needle through bead 5. Then add an eighth bead, and pull your needle through bead 3. Finally, add a ninth bead and then pull your needle through bead 1. Too Loose? Too Tujht? Once upon a time, Goldilocks eschewed breaking and entering the homes of innocent ursidae in favor of beading. She quickly discovered, however, that her thread tension-that is, how tightly her piece was woven-was either too tight or too loose. Turned out she was pulling her thread too hard-or not hard enough-after drawing her needle through beads already attached to her piece.
With practice, how- ever, Goldilocks developed a knack for establishing the correct thread tension, and lived hap- pily ever after. Beginning the even-count flat peyote stitch. As you add beads , pull your needle through beads 5, 3, and 1. Bead It 41 Add a 10th bead to your piece, and then pull your needle back through bead 9. Add an 11th bead, and pull your needle through bead 8. Finally, add a 12th bead, and then pull your needle through bead 7.
As you add beads , pull your needle through beads 9, 8, and 7. The Odd-Count Flat Peyote Stitch As I mentioned, the odd-count version of the flat peyote stitch is a bit more treacherous: After threading a beading needle with a long strand of waxed nylon thread — again, a yard should do the trick — add a tension bead and string an odd number of seed beads. So far so good. Add an eighth bead, and then pull your needle through bead 6. Then add a ninth bead, and pull your needle through bead A.
Finally, add a 10th bead and then pull your needle through bead 2. Again, so far so good; except for the addition of the extra bead on each row, this is exactly like the even-count stitch. As you add beads , pull your needle through beads 6, 4, and 2. Not Your Mama's Beading Brace yourself! Add an 1 1th bead, and then pull your needle through bead 1 and bead 2. Then pull the thread back through bead 1 1. Then add a 13th bead and pull your needle through bead 9. Finally, add a 14th bead and then pull your needle through bead 8.
Instead, the beads line up in the precise horizontal and vertical rows think the British in Here are the basics of the brick stitch: After threading a beading needle with a long strand of waxed nylon thread —yet again, a yard should do — and adding a tension bead, use a beading needle to string two seed beads.
Using your fingers, situate bead 2 so it is upside-down, side-by-side with bead 1 rather than top-to-bottom. Again pull your needle through beads 1 and 2, in the same direction as before, with the thread exiting from the bottom of bead 2. Add a third bead, pull your needle through bead 2 from bottom to top, and then pull your needle through bead 3 from top to bottom.
The thread should exit from the bottom of bead 3. Situate bead 2 so it is upside down, side by side with bead 1. Loop a second time through beads 1 and 2. Add a lourth bead, pull your needle through bead 3 from top to bottom, and then pull your needle through bead A from bottom to top. Add a fifth bead, and secure it to the row as with prior beads — pulling your needle back through the previous bead bead A from bottom to top, and then again through the new bead bead 5 from top to bottom.
Add a fourth bead. Begin a new row by stringing a sixth and seventh bead, from bottom to top, situate beads 6 and 7 so they are side- by-side, and pull the needle back down through bead 2 from top to bottom. Loop your needle around any of the threads between beads 2 and 3, and come back up through bead 7 from bottom to top. String an eighth bead, situate it so it is side-by-side with bead 7, and pull the needle back down through bead 3 from top to bottom. Loop your needle around any of the threads between beads 3 and A, and come back up through bead 8 from bottom to top.
Continue adding rows, securing each new row to the one that precedes it, until several rows are completed. Start new row. It's Hip to Be Square: The Square Stitch In appearance, the square stitch is quite similar to the brick stitch in that both line up in tidy little rows. But just as twins Elizabeth and Jessica Wakefield of Sweet Valley High fame look exactly alike but have vastly different inner workings, so, too, do the brick and square stitches. Loop your thread around and pull your needle through the bead a second time, in the same direction.
Start your square Stitch. Bead It 45 String five more beads onto the thread, for a total of six beads. Add a seventh bead, but line it up such that it is below, rather than next to, bead 6. Pull your needle back through bead 6, going in the same direction as before, and con- tinuing on through bead 7 a second time. Add an eighth bead, pull your needle through bead 5 again, going in the same direc- tion as before , and continue on through bead 8 a second time.
Add beads 9— f 2 in the same manner as beads 7 and 8, looping back through the bead above each new bead. After you add bead 12, pull the needle directly through beads 1—6. Do not loop around any beads. Then draw the thread through beads 7— Continue in this vein until you have completed several rows. Each time you finish a row, pull your thread through the row above the newly completed row, and then through the new row itself. Continue with the stitch until you've finished several rows. Beading with a loom yields a piece that looks much like one made with a square stitch.
If you've conceived a particularly large square-stitch piece-say, a full-scale reproduction of Picasso's Guernica-yow might want to invest in a loom to get the job done. Chain Gang: The Daisy Chain Stitch The daisy chain stitch represents a shift in that it does not yield a long, hat-bandish strand of woven beads. Rather, the daisy chain resembles, er, a chain of daisies. After threading a beading needle with waxed nylon thread — still using a yard or so, since we re just practicing — and adding a tension bead, string five seed beads of a single color.
I used yellow. Then add a sixth bead in a contrasting color; I chose pink. The sixth bead will be the center of your first "daisy. Add three more yellow beads — beads 7—9 — and then draw your needle through bead 5. Pull tight to close the circle. Q00Q0 0 Start your daisy chain. Loop through the first bead in the opposite direction. Finish the first daisy. Bead It 47 String the 10th bead-— it should be yellow — and then draw your needle back through bead 9. Add another bead, yellow again, and then draw your needle back through bead String three more yellow beads and one pink bead beads 12—15 , and then draw your needle back through bead 1 1.
Again, string three more yellow beads beads 16—18 , and then pull your needle back through bead Repeat the actions in steps 4—7 to continue adding daisies to the chain.
Complete the second daisy. The final product looks a lot like the square stitch and brick stitch, but the process is way less complicated. For the moment, slide the second half of your strand of beads — in this case, beads 4—6 — away from the first half — here, beads 1—3. Then loop your needle around and draw it through beads 1—3 a second time.
Separate the beads and draw your needle through the first three a second time. Draw your needle through beads 4—6 to anchor the second rung in place. Thread three more beads — beads 7—9 — and then loop back around to again draw your needle through beads 4—6. Draw your needle through beads 7—9 to anchor the third rung. Bead It 49 Continue in this vein until you have completed several rows. If not, better luck next time. Here h a thought: Try working the ladder stitch with a single bugle bead — they look like itty bitty cylinders — comprising each rung.
Be sure to look for bugle beads that are uniform in size. Ditto right thread, top thread, bottom thread, and so on.
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Got it? Using either needle, string four beads, settling them at the center point olyour thread. The beads should lorm a circle-ish, yet cross-ish shape. Add two beads beads 5 and 6 to the thread on the right. Add one bead bead 7 to the thread on the left. Cross the left needle through bead 6 and pull the string taut. To do so, pull the right thread through bead 1 1 from top to bottom, and cross the left thread through beads 13, 9, and 1 1 in the opposite direction of the right thread.
To begin the first square of the second row, add two beads 14 and 15 to the top thread and one bead 16 to the bottom thread. Cross the top thread through bead You will not be required to start all over with a longer string. Instead, when you have 4—6 inches of thread remaining, tie it off by making a simple knot not in your thong, but between two beads in your piece. Weave through a few beads already in your piece, pulling 52 Not Your Mama's Beading The Pitter Pattern of Little Beads Once you've mastered your stitches, you might feel up to creating a piece based on a pattern rather than a solid-colored bauble or one that uses a random assortment of beads.
Patterns can range from simple-think checkerboard, stripes, or what have you-to incredibly complex-say, a flat peyote stitch bracelet cuff featuring Hieronymus Bosch's Garden of Earthly Delights. Beading patterns of all types and stripes can be found online, many free of charge; if you're more reality-based than virtual, peruse the books at your local beading shop. Of course, you're not married to the idea of building your piece based on someone else's pattern. You can always dream up your own patterns either on the fly as you stitch or on paper.
You'll find some special pages in appendix B that you can copy to help you plot your designs. After a few knots have been added in this manner, start a new thread by knotting the tail end of it between two other beads in your piece and then weave the thread through several beads to return to the point in your piece where you can continue adding beads.
I usually wait until the whole piece is finished to take this step. Bead It 53 Tie One Off While I'm on the subject of tying off, I should mention that you'll want to follow the same procedure after you finish stitching a piece so the whole thing doesn't fall apart-a process called "tying off. After you've added a few knots, dab a bit of Super Glue on them, wait for it to dry, and then trim the excess thread again, you don't want to trim so closely that you cut into your piece.
Err Supply: Fixing Your Goofs While I myself am perfect in every way and never ever make mistakes, I realize that errors of all types are a fact of life for other people, especially my husband. If you notice the mistake fairly quickly, this is a reasonable course of action. Then, string your needle with new thread, weave it through several adjoining beads, add a new bead in the empty space you created, and weave through more beads to secure it.
Finish by tying off the thread in the usual manner. If you, like me, are a charter member of the Half-Assed Club, you can use a perma- nent marker to color the offending bead in the correct hue. If no one will notice the problem but you, you can decide to live with it. Alternatively, you may need to build little loops 54 Not Your Mama's Beading into your beadwork for attaching the clasp after the piece is complete. All this is to say there is no one way to add a clasp to a stitched piece; the method and timing will vary from one design to another.
As I mentioned in chapter 2, you can also use, er, wire wire. Chances are, however, that your first brush with wire will be with pre-fab head pins and eye pins when making drop earrings and pendants. Working with memory wire is a breeze-in essence, you just use your memory wire cutters to cut a length or, more pre- cisely, a circle of memory wire and slide your beads onto the wire. Of course, you need to create stop- pers on each end of the wire to keep your beads from sliding off; to do so, you can glue little memory wire caps onto the ends, or just use your pliers to twist the ends into decorative loops or spirals.
Forming it into nifty shapes can require serious strength; unless you're Diamond from American Gladiators, expect to suffer a bit. Holding the chain nose pliers in your dominant hand, grasp the head pin with the tip of the pliers about 1 millimeter above the top bead.
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Then, use your fingers on your non-dominant hand to bend the wire above the pliers at a degree angle, creating an upside-down L or bent-elbow shape. If, every time you loop a head pin, you find yourself dithering over where on the round nose pliers you should wrap the loop, use a permanent marker to indicate on the pliers where the wire should go. Using your fingers, curl the wire around the round nose pliers to create a half loop. The wire should be snug around the pliers. To complete the loop, turn the round nose pliers a quarter turn and continue wrapping the wire around them.
Bend the excess wire at a degree angle. Your finished dangle This loop acts like a jump ring in that you use your chain nose pliers to open and close it sideways in order to hook the dangle onto, say, an ear wire, a chain, a jump ring, or some other component of your piece. While creating wrapped loops is a bit more time consuming, they do allow lor a much more secure connection. If you followed my sage advice in chapter 2 and purchased an extra set of chain nose pliers, use that second set of pliers in your dominant hand to grab the end of the excess wire.
If you cheaped out on the second set of pliers, just use your fingers. Pull the second set of pliers toward you and down, under the stem of the dangle, and back up to their original position to wrap the excess wire around the stem. The wrapped bit should be tight, and as close to the loop as possible. Repeat step 3 as many times as neces- sary to cover the exposed portion ot the stem.
Use wire cutters to trim any excess Firmly grasp the dangle with the chain nose pliers, wire. Bead It 57 2 Use a second set of chain nose pliers or your fingers to grab the tip of the excess wire. OOOO o The finished product. You can also create a wrapped loop on one end of a length of wire, add a few beads, and create a second wrapped loop on the other end of said length to create a head connector or link.
You can then con- nect a series of these links to create a kick-ass necklace. Hook the second link onto the first one before wrapping the second loop on the second link. Take clasps, for example. In particular, making toggle clasps is a piece of cake; all you need is a couple bits ol gauge or higher wire and some round nose pliers. Using the round nose pliers, artfully shape one bit of the wire such that it resembles a lopsided figure eight — that is, with one large loop and one small one. Fashion the other bit of wire into a bar with a small loop in the middle. Use very coarse sandpaper to smooth the edges.
If you really want to go crazy, track down a flat- head hammer and an anvil or bench block and pound the bejesus out of both pieces of the clasp until they are flat. In addition to clasps, you can also fashion your own eye pins, fancy-schmancy head pins, and even your own ear wires. For example, to make a spiral-shaped head pin — or, more descriptively, a lollipop head pin — do the following: Use the very tip of round nose pliers to grasp the end of a 6-inch piece of wire; there should be no wire poking out the short side.
Using your thumb, press down on the wire as you rotate the pliers a quarter turn. Grasp the end of the wire with the tip of your round nose pliers. Bead It 59 Lay the circle flat on the bottom jaw of the chain nose pliers and clamp down. Then, while holding the pliers still, push the tail of the wire against the circle in quarter-turn increments, staying as close to the original curve as possible, to form the "lollipop. After a few complete rotations, position the tip of the chain nose pliers at the point where the lollipop straightens out, and bend the wire at a degree angle.
Enough with the boring prelims! Financial Freedom Release yourself from the yoke of debt and instead yoke yourself with this amazing credit-card necklace. Showcase Showdown Turn the world on its ear with this upside-down masterpiece. Puce for Flatulence Awareness! Each segment will be doubled on the necklace, for a total of four strands.
Apply Super Glue to one end of one strand of ribbon, and then, while wearing your latex gloves, use your fingers to roll that end of the ribbon to form a point. When the Super Glue hardens, this end of the ribbon will act like a blunt needle, making it waaaaaay easier to thread the ribbon through the holes on your clasp and in your beads.
Pull the ribbon, Super Glue end first, through the bottom loop on one end of your clasp, until the tail is about 2 in long. Using an overhand knot, attach the ribbon to the clasp loop. Pull tightly to secure the knot. String a dozen or so beads onto the ribbon at random intervals, consuming half the length of the ribbon. Once the length is right, tie an overhand knot to secure the ribbon to the clasp; this will prevent the ribbon from slipping. Repeat step 5, again stringing the beads at random intervals, but this time use more ribbon to make a slightly longer strand.
When you finish stringing beads, pull the ribbon through the same loop of the clasp as in step 3. Tie an overhand knot to secure this end of the ribbon to the clasp. Repeat steps 2—9 with the other 2 -yd length of ribbon, attaching it to the top loops of the clasp. You now have a four- strand necklace, with each strand a slightly different length. To begin, get your hands on an inch-wide key ring sans keys , and attach several purty dangles to it I used Then, attach a yard-long length of ribbon mine was deep red in color and about 8mm wide to the key ring by folding the ribbon in half to create a loop at the center point.
Poke the loop through the key ring, and then poke the ends of the ribbon through the loop and pull tight. Rather than using a clasp to fasten the necklace, just double-knot the ends make sure the necklace will be long enough to slip on and off over your head. To strengthen the connection, apply a few drops of Super Glue to the knot; after it dries, snip off any excess ribbon.
Surely they would cel- ebrate my choice; it was useful, after all, able to both shade me from the sun and protect me from rain. Sadly, however, they inexplicably viewed it as further proof of my inability to be sensible with money— a view that has been borne out by the fact that I frequently carry more debt than Michael Jackson. Thread one crystal bicone bead, one glass cane bead, and a second crystal bicone bead onto the wire.
Create a wrapped loop on the other end of the wire to secure the beads. Repeat steps 1—2 to create a second link. Financial Freedom 67 Attach the second link to the first link, wrapping the loop on the second link to secure the connection. Make sure you don't wrap the wire at each end of the necklace so you'll be able to attach the clasp. Attach the bar portion of the clasp to one end of the necklace and the toggle por- tion to the other, wrapping the wire loops and snipping off any excess wire.
Now for the fun part. Wielding extremely sharp scissors, slice and dice your credit cards into various shapes and sizes. We opted primarily for rounded rectangles and triangles. Using the emeiy board, file the sharp points on your credit-card pieces to blunt them. Using the leather punch, punch a hole into the top of each credit-card piece. Hammer an eyelet into the hole in each credit-card piece. Attach two credit-card pieces to each jump ring or split ring; you should wind up with 36 dangles. Attach a credit-card dangle to one ol the wire loops that connects the second link ol the chain to the third one.
Connect the remaining credit-card dangles to the wire loops that separate the links, working toward the other end of the necklace, until all the dangles have been attached. Making ear- rings from your cancelled Visa cards: Priceless. Simply cut out the Visa logos on two of your credit cards, use your leather punch to create the necessary holes, hammer the eyelets in, and attach the plastic pieces to ear wires. Financial Freedom 69 Showcase Showdown by Charissa Orannen Traditionalists believe that the clasp goes in the back oi your necklace, and the locus, or showcase, bead goes in front — no exceptions.
Defying that rule — putting the clasp in front, alongside the focus bead — can be your subtle way of sticking it to the man. Okay, maybe not sticking it to the man, but definitely sticking it to Anna Wintour. Plus, it ensures that the kick-ass clasp that consumed half your beading budget will be noticed by all. Add the spacer beads to the head pin, followed by the 6mm faceted stone.
Begin forming a wrapped loop with the excess wire at the top of the head pin, but stop at the point that the wire is shaped like a hook. Slip the toggle portion of the clasp onto the hook. Complete the wrapped loop. Using a crimp bead, attach one end of your beading wire to the toggle, and use wire cutters to trim the excess tail. Add the remaining 4mm bead.
Attach the thread to the clasp. Using tl? These days, a lariat is a lovely necklace. Some lariats are simply long ropes of beads whose ends can be loosely knotted or even tossed saucily over one shoulder, as with a scarf. Other lariats, similar to the Showcase Showdown piece, feature a closure in the front. The difference? Rather than using a clasp, a lariat uses single loop-either the loop of a toggle clasp minus the bar or a loop built into the necklace with beads and thread.
The other end of the lariat can then be pulled through this loop and left to dangle, like a flashing neon arrow down your decolletage. Making a looped lariat is simple enough. We used two 6mm faceted pyrite beads, one 3mm faceted sterling silver bead, three 8mm faceted beads, seven sterling silver spacer beads, three 8mm bead caps, one 3 in head pin, one 12mm faceted crystal bead, and approximately 2. If you want your rope to be shorter, we won't hold it against you. The one we made is closer in length to a choker, and so far we have eluded the jewelry police.
After setting the dangle aside, we began the "rope" portion of the lariat, forming a loop on one end of the beading wire by stringing one crimp bead followed by 18 2. After stringing the last faceted bead, we pulled the beading wire back through the crimp bead to form a Win loop with a Win tail, give or take a tick.
If the bead on your dangle is larger or smaller than 12mm, you'll need to adjust the size of this loop accordingly. We used crimping pliers to squish the crimp bead, and used our wire cutters to snip the tail. Next, we strung the 3mm sterling silver bead onto the beading Form a loop on one end of the lariat, wire; this hid the crimp bead securing the lariat loop, creating a more finished appearance. Then we strung the remaining 2. We added the remaining beads: one 6mm faceted crystal, one sterling silver spacer bead, one 6mm faceted crystal, three sterling silver spacer beads, one 8mm faceted crystal, three sterling silver spacer beads, one 8mm faceted crystal, three sterling silver spacer beads, one 8mm faceted crystal, and the remaining bead cap.
We pulled the end of the strand through the loop on the other end, added a crimp bead, and then attached the dangle. After squishing the crimp bead and snipping the excess beading ready to ride. He learned which fork is which not so handy these days, considering that Taco Bell seems to be our date-night destination of choice , a simple box step, and how to properly address his elders. To do so, thread one crystal bead followed by one small sterling silver bead on a head pin, and then use a wrapped loop to affix the dangle to the last link on one end of the chain.
Lay out your beads in the order they will be attached to the chain. We put the larger, more impressive beads toward the center, accompanied by 2mm sterling silver balls, and tapered in at the ends with the smaller beads.
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Repeat until all the beads for your necklace are on head pins, making sure to keep the dangles in the proper order as you work. The dangles that house your more impres- sive stones will also feature two 2mm ster- ling silver balls — one below the larger bead, and one above it. Charm School 73 3 6 the center of your chain, and use a wrapped loop to attach the center bead. Continue attaching the dangles to the chain, working from the center outward, until all are affixed.
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Create the dangles for the necklace, but do not wrap the loops. Even better, make earrings. They require only 10 dangles. Thread a sterling silver ball, a focal bead, and a second sterling silver ball on one head pin, and repeat with a second head pin. Attach each head pin to a French ear wire and wrap the excess wire around the top of the pin. Slide one 4mm crystal on one of the remaining head pins. Create a simple loop at the top of the head pin, snipping any excess wire. Repeat steps for the remaining seven head pins and crystals. Open the loop at the top of each head pin partway.
Slip two head pins on the mapped loop on one of the head pins attached to the French ear wire, and two head pins on the French wire's loop. Close the loops to secure the dangles onto the earring. Repeat steps 8 and 9 to complete the second earring. Be warned: These can be tricky to find. If you have trouble locating some, you can opt for a regular 3mm bead instead. Cut a 4 -yd length of FireLine. Draw the length of the thread across the beeswax several times to condition it.
Thread two size 12 tapestry needles on the FireLine, one on each end. Using one needle, pick up one 3-cut Japanese seed bead and pull it down to the mid-point of the thread. Baby You're a Star 75 With both needles, pick up the color 2 in our case, purple 6mm crystal bicone and another 3-cut Japanese seed bead.
Pull both down to sit on top of the first seed bead. This constitutes the bottom of the necklace. Put the left needle in the left side and the right needle in the right side of a 4mm color 1 here, teal ciystal bicone and cross through the bead. Pull evenly until the crystal sits with its bicone ridge cen- tered on the seed bead below. With the right needle, pick up a seed bead, followed by two 3mm crystal bicones in color 2. With the left needle, pick up a seed bead, two 3mm crystals in color 2, and a second seed bead. Then, with the right needle, pick up a seed bead, a 4mm crystal bicone in color 1, and another seed bead.
With the left needle, pick up a seed bead, followed by two 3mm crystals in color 2. Using the right needle, cross through both 3mm crystals on the left needle and pull tight. Then repeat steps 10— Then repeat steps 10—12 a second time. Point the 6mm bicone toward you. With the needle currently at the center of the star, pick up a single seed bead, and then draw the needle through the row of 3mm crystals you added in step 8, startmg rn the mrddle of the star and pulling outward. With the other needle, pick up a seed bead, a 4mm bicone in color 1, and another seed bead.
Cross the needle used in step 16 through the two 3mm crystals through which you passed the left needle in step 15, but from the outside of the star inward. Your needle will emerge at the center ol the star. With the right needle, pick up a rose montee, and then draw the needle through the set of 3mm crystals opposite the 6mm crystal at the bottom of the necklace.
Pull the left needle clockwise through the next seed bead, 4mm bicone, and seed bead, and then through the next set ol 3mm crystals toward the center of the star. Still using the same needle, pass through the set of 3mm crystal bicones opposite the 6mm bead comprising the bottom of the necklace.
Follow the thread path of the star-through the spokes and the beads on the perimeter that link them-with the left needle. Pull the right needle clockwise through the next seed bead, 4mm bicone, and seed bead, and then through the next set ol 3mm crystals toward the center ol the star. Then continue working the same needle in a clockwise fashion, pulling it through the next seed bead and the next set of 3mm crystals, toward the outer portion of the star.
Stop when you pass through the seed bead, 4mm bicone, and seed bead above the 6mm bead at the bottom ol the necklace. Baby You're a Star 77 Pull the right needle through the first set of 3mm crystals from the outside of the star inward. This is the row of 3mm crystals you added in step 8. Still using the right needle, pass through the set of 3mm crystal bicones opposite the 6mm bead at the bottom of the necklace. Pull both needles through one seed bead, one 3mm bicone in color 2, and another seed bead. With the left needle, pick up two 4mm crystal bicones in color 2 and one seed bead.
Using the left needle, cross through the two 4mm crystals on the right needle and pull tight. Then, with the right needle, pick up a seed bead, a second 8mm crystal bicone in color 1, and another seed bead. With the left needle, pick up two 4mm crystals rn color 2. Using the right needle, cross through both 4mm crystals on the left needle and pull tight. Then, with the right needle, pick up a seed bead, a third 8mm crystal bicone in color 1 , and another seed bead.
With the left needle, pick up a seed bead followed by two 4mm crystals in color 2. With the left needle, pick up a single seed bead, and then draw the needle through the first existing row ol 4mm crystals this is the row of 4mm crys- tals you added in step 26 , starting in the middle of the star and pulling outward.